Thursday, December 3, 2009

A Day in Paradise

The following is an excerpt from one of my entries from our expedition blog. The day had special significance for me, as it brought me back to Paradise Bay, where I had scattered some of my father’s ashes the year before. The second landing at Orne Harbour was fantastic as well. It’s not often one has the chance to lie down in the snow and take a catnap on the top of a ridge, with no one in sight, in a blizzard, in total silence, with an occasional penguin passing by.

From November 26th…

We’ve reached a point in this experience where words begin to fail to describe the beauty, emotions and inspiration that we are feeling. Antarctica has become something special to each of us in different ways, but collectively we share the belief that this is a spectacular place beyond conventional description. A poet would find it the ultimate muse.




Above photo courtesy of Jack Robert-Tissot

Today the magic of Antarctica was revealed as we arrived at Paradise Bay. Aptly named, this protected bay has been described as the most beautiful place in the world, and while it certainly was impressive this morning when we woke up, it was hard to see its depth and grandeur through the thick white clouds and falling snow. We dressed warmly for our landing, which was intended to offer us some time for individual reflection, and set out in the zodiacs to Almirante Brown Station, named for the Argentinean hero. About 15 minutes after our landing, Paradise Bay transformed when the sun parted the thick cloud cover and broke through to reveal a bay that reflected majestic mountains in its stillness. The temperature rose dramatically and we switched from goggles to sunglasses to take in the precious warmth and stunning scene. Then, moments later, a portion of the glacier across the water calved, in clear view as we hiked up a mountain above the station, and it was as if Paradise Bay had awoken and decided to welcome us to her shores personally. Appreciating the special gift we had been given, we took time by ourselves to let the magical morning sink in.





Hike above Paradise Bay

After lunch we had an optional landing and hike at Orne Harbor and those who went were treated to a steep climb up a ridge to a chinstrap penguin rookery. We crossed over the ridge to the other side and the silently falling snow was entrancing.




Me & a couple of chinstrap penguins hiding in the flakes of a blizzard at Orne Harbour


Upon our return to the ship, we gathered for Robert’s third Leadership on the Edge installment. We also heard from members of the expedition on various topics. Steven Blumenfeld, a student from Yale University, spoke about how the Antarctic Treaty that was formed 50 years ago can serve as a model for climate policy today, and Ken Townsel of the Ron Clark Academy inspired us all with a motivational speech about seizing each moment of this expedition.

Tomorrow is Thanksgiving for the Americans on board the ship. The chef will be preparing a special feast and all send their love to families celebrating at home.

There's a Price for Everything

The following was written on the crossing to Antarctica on November 20th. A different version was posted on the 2041 blog...this was my personal journal entry:

The Drake Passage is a beast. The fact that I knowingly am traveling through it again for a second time speaks to the power of Antarctica. The Drake is like a mental and physical test, not unlike what astronaut must feel going to outer space. Different of course, but in the sense that you are traveling where few have gone before and putting your mind and body through hell to get there, it is pretty similar.  We are well past the Antarctic Convergence (where the Atlantic and Pacific waters meet and result in a major temperature drop) and the power of the ocean here cannot even be described.  It’s ferocious, and mesmerizing, and beautiful, and frightening. As I type this in my cabin, there are massive waves crashing onto my window, and I’m not even on the bottom level of the ship.

The stabilizers on this little ship, the Clipper Adventurer, have helped. I don’t think I would be very happy on the MV Ushuaia right now. Zero stabilizers in the worst crossing that the captain of that ship had ever seen (March 2008) – that was not fun. It’s been slow-going, therefore, it looks like we are going to head further south and come back to the E-base and Bellingshausen on the way back. We have been radioing the Russian ship that was stuck in the Weddell Sea, to get advice as to what our best path will be to avoid remaining pack ice.

With any luck we’ll be in calmer waters by nightfall. We’ve been rocking and rolling for 2 days now and although I’ve technically avoided getting sea sick (I’m wearing a seasick patch), I’ll be happy to move out of the Drake – at least for a week until we have to do it all over again on the way back!

Only a matter of hours before we see our first iceberg!



Wednesday, November 18, 2009

I'm off!

I'm about to board the ship and set sail for Antarctica. This will be my final post on this blog until December 1st, but you can follow me from now on at http://expedition.2041.com. I will get comments if you write them on the message board, so please do!

See you on the flip side!

Lauren
Publish Post


Tuesday, November 17, 2009

Preparing for departure...

I am blown away by the passion of the people on this expedition…and we haven’t even set foot on the boat. There are about 50 people from all over the world here – Vietnam, India, Australia, New Zealand, Serbia, Turkey, Germany, Netherlands, Finland, United Arab Emirates, Canada, US, UK, Columbia, China, and more - all about to embark on an experience that will change their lives. It’s really amazing to observe their excitement, as I remember the same eager anticipation that I had the night before departing for Antarctica the first time.

Just as with my first expedition, my future shipmates each have amazing stories about what led them to this place at the bottom of the world, and goals that they want to achieve while here. We will be learning about climate change and energy from an expert from Shell, and about the Antarctic Treaty from one of the foremost experts from the British Antarctic Survey, and about the concept of carbon offsets from an advisor from Native Energy. My job on the ship is to help define the ultimate mission for the team’s post-expedition work and to launch the Alumni Program that will give the team the tools to stay connected and inspired. I introduced the program earlier tonight and already have been approached by enthusiastic team members who already have plans for actions when they return home.

We had a fantastic hike up the Martial Glacier today. It was quite a different hike than last year because of the snow, and it was certainly better coming down…we practically floated down the glacier on all the fresh powder! I’m about to have a big traditional Argentinean dinner a good night’s sleep…’cause I’m leaving for Antarctica tomorrow!



Photo taken by Tony Piedade on the way up Martial Glacier early this morning.

Looking down on Ushuaia...


Monday, November 16, 2009

A different look at Ushuaia

When I was last in Ushuaia, it was the middle of March at the end of the summer, and the snow had melted off of most of the Patagonian mountains surrounding the town. In November, the spring snow is still covering the range and tomorrow we'll be hiking in it up to our knees when we climb up towards what is left of the Martial Glacier. Another difference at this time of year is the sunlight. Dawn breaks around 5am, and the sun doesn't go down until about 10:30pm. In Antarctica, the daylight will be even longer.

It's been a pretty relaxing couple of days, and until the expedition members began arriving this afternoon, I spent most of my time hanging out with the other team leaders, discussing the agenda for the leadership program I'll be helping to facilitate on the boat.

Now that everyone is here, it's hit me that this is actually happening. It's also presenting me with moments of déjà vu, and I fondly remember this time only a year and a half ago when I was the one arriving with that look of excitement on my face and meeting strangers that would become my close friends. I still have that excitement, and undoubtedly have already said hello to people today that I will know for the rest of my life.  

It's 8:45 and I'm off to dinner…considering whether or not to put on sunscreen.



Sunday, November 15, 2009

Travelling

My mom worked for Pan Am and my dad regularly had business overseas, which meant that I grew up travelling. Since we would travel on my mom’s free passes in “space available”, it usually resulted in us sitting in First Class. In fact, as a little girl, I had to go to the airport dressed in a pretty dress and stockings so that I would be deemed acceptable to sit up front. Oh my, how times have changed.

My flight from JFK to Buenos Aires was relatively tolerable, thanks to my Ambien-induced 8 hour slumber (someone I know once referred to Ambien as “Business Class in a bottle”). The plane was bizarrely small for that long of a flight and I felt like a sardine. I actually had to get acrobatic at one point to launch out of my seat since the guy next to me wouldn’t wake up.

I am not sure why I feel so intrigued by the concept of travel as I write this. Maybe it is because I have spent much of the past year and a half studying climate change, or maybe it’s simply because I’ve just completed a 25-hour travel day. It never ceases to amaze me that I can leave the bustle of Manhattan on a Friday in rush hour, take off on a plane in an early winter Nor-Easter storm at night and land on a warm, Spring morning in another hemisphere, speed in a taxi through Buenos Aires to another airport and another plane, only to then again find myself in the freezing cold dark night 8 hours later, looking at the faint outline of mountains covered in snow in the southernmost city in the world. This planet is truly an amazing creation, and to think how humankind has found a way to jump all over it in contraptions that fly 35,000 feet in the air is nothing short of mind-boggling…if you really think about it.

So, I can’t help but think, as I embark on this journey to deepen my understanding of the urgent need to change how we use the planet’s resources, “why can’t humankind figure out a way to move our technology forward in a way that preserves this planet and enables future generations to live a comfortable life? Are we so spoiled, like little girls in First Class, that we can’t imagine doing things differently or making investments for the sake of those who will come after us?”

Wait, does that last paragraph sound like Carrie Bradshaw opening a “green” episode of “Sex and The City?”

Changing humankind’s behavior will not be easy, but as I reflect on the last year and a half since returning from my first trip to Antarctica, the signs that we may be on the road and travelling in the right direction seem to be present all around me. I live in New York City, and there is not a day that goes by that a bus with an advertisement with the word “green” doesn’t pass me. The trashcans in the subway now have stickers that explain that everything is recycled so that commuters won’t feel guilty disposing of their morning newspapers. My local farmers market not only provides me with everything I need to eat for the week (locally grown); I can also give any unwanted clothes to them to recycle, and there is someone sitting there every week signing up New Yorkers to “switch to wind energy”. This means that I pay a couple of extra dollars per month on my electric bill, but it’s creating a market and subsidizing more wind farms.

Now, I realize this is New York City, where you don’t need a car, apartments are small, and it is very easy to have a small carbon footprint. Even with its millions of inhabitants, New York City is becoming one of the “greenest” big cities in the world. However, the signs I see in my community are also appearing on national magazine covers bearing the words “Green Issue”, on national TV sitcoms that have “green” episodes, and most notably, a presidential campaign last year where both candidates acknowledged the importance of the issue of climate change.

While all of this is encouraging to me, it must seem odd to my European friends who have been recycling since they were born. I’m afraid the United States has a lot of work to do to catch up. I went to a debate the other night at the Japan Society near the U.N., to listen to several authorities from Japan, China and the U.S. share news of the negotiations leading up to December’s Climate Change Conference in Copenhagen in December. All had been active in the Kyoto negotiations and some even further back to the U.N. Framework Convention on Climate Change in 1989. It was made very clear that the world is waiting for the U.S. government to decide what they are willing to commit to. One gentleman from Japan described it as “holding the rest of the world hostage”. That same man, however, was encouraged by the Obama administration’s progress. The Ambassador from China was very quick to point out that while China recently surpassed the U.S. as the top carbon emitting country, they also have 21% of the world’s population while the U.S. has only 5%, leaving their per capita carbon emissions much lower than ours. It is also very obvious that they are already positioning themselves for the future green economy, particularly global solar panel production. I love my country and feel fortunate to have been born here (it is, after all, totally random where we end up finding ourselves as new lives on earth), but we share our atmosphere with the rest of the world and we need to take the lead in cleaning it up. Even if the thousands of scientists who have agreed that anthropogenic climate change is happening were all of a sudden found to be wrong, so what? The world is wasting time arguing. It is still happening! It doesn’t matter whose “fault” it is. When I asked the debate panel a question about leadership at Copenhagen, mentioned that hours before the President of the Maldives and leaders of ten other nations had pledged to go carbon neutral, and asked about grass roots activism happening all over the world, and what effect, if any, it was having on the negotiations, I didn’t really get a straight answer. It’s a very complicated negotiation process, maybe the most complicated treaty that world leaders have ever had to face, but they need to stop playing politics, come up with solutions, and get this planet on the road to recovery…quickly.

So, as I wind down this marathon day of travel and get ready to start my longer journey south to the white continent (yes, my entire trip is offset…a complicated notion and I am sure the subject of a future blog entry), I am focused on the power of people and what they can accomplish: they can invent an airplane and change the world, they can study science in school and grow up to invent a wind turbine or solar panel, they can use the internet to spawn a grass roots movement that results in a coordinated International Day of Climate Action in over 180 countries, they can be ambitious and pledge to make their climate-vulnerable countries carbon neutral as a statement to the rest of the world, and they can be leaders who travel to Copenhagen and put politics aside and the future of the planet first by signing a fair and ambitious treaty. The first four have happened…I pray the fifth will too. That would be a trip worth taking. Anyone have an extra plane ticket to Copenhagen?

Lauren Wylie
Ushuaia, Argentina

Friday, November 13, 2009

And so it begins...

I'm off! Next stop, Buenos Aires...

Thank you to everyone for all of your support and well wishes!

I'll post again as soon as I can.

Lauren